Sunday, September 26, 2010

Late 1940's black jacket

This is one of two gorgeous jackets I picked up at the Love Vintage fair earlier this year. The fabric is a black worsted wool. The collar and cuffs have this lovely pin tuck treatment that makes the jacket this much more distinctive.

Here it is, and pardon the less than enthused expression on my face, I was doing these after faffing about doing the swimsuit shots so was getting tired.
I think the shot from the back best shows just how nipped in the waist is. The construction of the jacket is beautiful. It is a joy to wear such a well tailored garment. As I commented to a friend, it feels a bit like being hugged all day, it fits that snugly around the waist.

And onto the detailed shots for the sewists out there who love to see how things are put together.
The label - mornessa. I haven't been able to uncover much about this label on the internet so I doubt it was a high fashion label. It's made in England so I'm guessing the brand is also British. Next to it is the tag from the stall I bought it from, which gives the rough date and size. And the very reasonable price, considering what I've paid in the past for suit jackets from DJs or similar that have not been any where near as well made.
The lovely pin tuck feature on the collar and the cuffs. It's the same fabric as the rest of the jacket, just with gorgeous rows of pin tucks.

Fabric covered buttons and bound button holes.

The shape of the back and sleeve pieces is interesting. It's a bit tricky to show the seam in the photos, but the centre back piece and the top of the sleeve are all one piece, rather than a separate back piece and set in sleeve. I haven't seem this style of pattern in a jacket before.

Also in the shaping, the nipped in waist is very obvious in the side seam. And even the sleeves have darts in the them to add to the very fitted style. The jacket has two vertical pockets at the front, with a little flap that sits perfectly flat with the jacket.

I *love* this jacket. I've worn it to work a number of times and always get compliments on how beautifully it fits. I'm on the look out for any patterns from that era that are close to this, and particularly have that interesting centre back and sleeve piece as I'm curious as to how that affects the way you construct and fit the garment.

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